Tuesday, February 23, 2010

There was an old Katie...

There was an old lady who swallowed a fly
I don’t know why she swallowed a fly.
Perhaps she’ll die.


The apathy in that nursery rhyme used to bug me. (Pun intended.) But now I understand. The woman was in Indonesia. She couldn’t help it.


I ate my school-provided lunch one day while sitting in the teachers’ lounge. Then the chubby little “office boy” burst through the door, shouting frantically in Indonesian. (The office boy is an old woman, but they only refer to her as “office boy,” or OB for short. I may never solve that mystery.)


She was shouting way too quickly for me to interpret her. I looked to the English teachers for help.


“She said, ‘Whatever you do, do not eat the vegetables. They are rusak. How do you say it? Yes, contaminated. Do not eat the vegetables.’”


I looked at my plate. The vegetables were long gone.


Perhaps I’ll die.


----


Since I’m the only American most of my teachers have met, I guess I’ve inevitably become a poster child for the US. These people are generalization-crazy. They tend to take every little thing I do and apply it to all Americans.


Sometimes, this is delightful. “Ooh, all Americans have such fun ideas for teaching students!” They literally say that. All Americans.


Sometimes, it’s just ridiculous. I drink a Coke Zero every morning here. At home, I drink a Diet Mountain Dew every morning. On a list of “things I miss from home,” my precious Dew at least ranks third or fourth, and it’s #1 when you limit the list to non-living things. I’m convinced that my symptoms of withdrawal are worse than a drug addict’s.


Anyway, I drink a Coke Zero every morning at school. The teachers are disgusted. “That will give you a stomach ache!” They say it every day. To be fair, I probably do have a stomach ache at least once a week, but Coke Zero is not the culprit.


“All Americans drink Coke Zero for breakfast.”


I try to gently correct them. No, most Americans don’t have pop for breakfast. Many of them drink coffee. Some drink orange juice or even just water.


I’ve taught at this school for more than five months now. I drink a pop every single morning. And even today, “Miss Ketty, you are going to get sick.”


“Pinky promise I won’t.” I love pinky promises. I’ve taught everyone here how to pinky promise.


Now they’ve started claiming that watching me drink Coke Zero is giving them a stomach ache. Today one teacher said, “Ooh, please. I cannot watch you drink that. It makes my stomach hurt, and then I will not be able to breast feed my baby.”


I don’t even know what to say to that.


Mom occasionally sends me a few bottles of DMD. I treasure them. If part of the bottle makes it to the afternoon (and only in the afternoon), the teachers will ask to try it. I feel like I’m giving up my own blood. Basically, I am.


I am constantly giving them American treats. I shower them with Hershey’s Kisses until the chocolate is dripping down their chins. I bring in muffins and no-bake cookies and tortilla chips. But you get your hands off my Mountain Dew. Simple solution, though: I just stopped bringing it in to school.


I have painted my nails twice in the past four months. Muslim women aren’t allowed to paint their nails (except the week before their wedding) or color their hair, so they’re fascinated by my fingers.


“All Americans paint their nails every morning!” they observe.


“I’ve painted my nails twice,” I say.


“No, I think you paint them every morning. And all Americans color their hair!”


“I have never dyed my hair. Some people do. Not everyone.”


“What is it like to have blond hair, Miss Ketty? Your blond hair is so pretty.”


I explain that I wouldn’t know, because I have never had blond hair. I google “blond women” on the internet (with some alarmingly suggestive, though perhaps predicable, results). I show them the cleaner pictures. “Yes, that is like your hair. Your blond hair is so pretty!” I do not have blond hair.


Whenever we’re not in class, all of the teachers congregate in the lounge. It’s not air conditioned, but it has wireless internet, and we each have a desk there. I guess it’s not surprising, but since we spend so much time together, I’ve actually grown closer with a lot of the teachers than I have with most of the students. Most of them are young—under 35—and they’re eager to learn and share.


I have officially been put in charge of “lounge music.” Today was Britney Spears day.


Rudi has become one of my favorites. He’s shorter than I am and only 21, and he started working at IGM in mid-January. He’s incredibly good at English, the best speaker I’ve met in this whole country with the exception of AMINEF’s employees.


He has an incredible (and kind of funny) formal vocabulary. “I am currently considering filing an application for one of the assortment of scholarships which is offered by your parent organization.”


I teach him slang and idioms. Once, I exploded with, “I am sick of fish, Rudi!” He was concerned and asked if I needed to use the restroom. No, I explained, I’m not really sick. I’m just tired of fish. Too much fish. Terlalu banyak ikan.


The greatest thing about Rudi is that he’s comfortable enough with the language that I can explain things to him in English and he understands, but he’s far enough removed to ask questions that really make me think.


Today, he asked me the difference in pronunciation between cop and cup. Say them out loud. Pretty close, right?


And this is where I fall short. I haven’t ever felt at a loss because my degree isn’t in education, and I feel very qualified to read and edit speeches and papers. But I just don’t know how to explain the differences to him. All I can do it say the words aloud over and over and give him other words to compare them to. The vowel in cop is like the vowel in rob, I say. And cup is like… guppy. What’s a guppy? Of course he doesn’t know what a guppy is. I need linguistics training or something.


He gave me a ride home today after we taught English Club together. “You get on the motorcycle, right?” he asked.


“Umm, yeah, I already did. That’s why we’re moving now,” I said.


No. He wanted to know why I get on a motorcycle, but I get in a car.


Easy, I said. You’re literally climbing onto a motorcycle, and you’re getting into a car.


Ok, he said. But you get on a bus.


Hmm. Well, I said, I think maybe that’s because you’re climbing up to get into a bus. So you’re climbing on.


(This is the point in an Indonesian lesson where I would suggest quitting and getting some fried rice. Bless him, he kept up.)


Ok, he said. But you also climb up to get into big trucks. But you still get into trucks.


I honestly don’t know why, I finally told him. But I promised I could at least tell him what the correct English was, and he could memorize it. That’s the best I could do.


Rudi studied in America once before; he traveled with a big group of Indonesians and lived in California for two months. It’s amazing how much of a difference it made, and he tries to share what he learned with the other teachers.


“People in America did not yell at me on the street,” he says. “When I wanted rice for lunch, they got me rice for lunch. They did not tell me I needed to eat their food only.”


He gets embarrassed when people shout at me as he drives me home and apologizes for them. I tell them he doesn’t need to apologize for anything, but it makes me wonder. Is learning the negatives of your own culture the dark side of gaining a more worldly understanding? I mean, it’s a good thing to know the weaknesses and strengths of where you come from. That’s how we grow, right? But I feel guilty when he’s embarrassed.


And I know the feeling. I mean… look at MTV’s Jersey Shore, for God’s sake. American Indian reservations. Plastic surgery. Tanning salons. I fidget in my seat when I try to explain them.


Rudi is applying for a Fulbright to get his master’s degree next year in America. I really, really, really want him to get it. He asked me to help him find some potential schools.


“I think would like to apply to attend Ball State University,” he said.


I could have cried.


All Americans who attend Ball State University are nice like you, right?” he asked.


You can take the boy out of Indonesia, but you can’t take the Indonesian out of the boy.


“They would love you,” I said.

Monday, February 22, 2010

TO-BA! TO-BA!

My guidebook says unless they’re coming from southern Sumatra, most travelers will enter Medan from the rest of Southeast Asia and put the city on their “worst places I’ve ever visited” list. The good news is that I WAS coming from southern Sumatra, and therefore I was quite happy and Medan seemed like a serious step up.


I flew into Medan on a Thursday, and fellow ETA John and I set out for Lake Toba the next morning. Not before, of course, attempting to exhaust Medan’s culinary possibilities (read, a couple food stands and one large grocery store). I’m constantly surprised by the products well-known brands sell in foreign countries that I’ve never even heard of in the US.


Lays brand “seaweed chips?” Hmm. Pringles sells “basil and garlic” and “salt and pepper” flavored chips here, as well as crab-flavored and:



Valuable lesson learned: just because it comes in pink doesn’t mean it tastes good.


Actually, we didn’t even come close to skimming the surface of Medan’s food offerings. Since a large number of Christians live there, you can find meats like pork and… yes, dog. They label the stands so as not to offend Muslims, though: B1 is dog and B2 means pork. Sadly, I only saw one of those stands as we drove past it quickly.


Getting to Lake Toba required a 30-minute becak ride (a motorbike with a sort of side car), four hours on a hot bus that doesn’t stop, and a 45-minute ferry ride from Parapat to the city on Samosir Island with what must be one of the coolest town names ever: Tuk Tuk. It’s pronounced “took-took.”


Toba is the largest lake in Southeast Asia; it was created by a volcanic eruption tens of thousands of years ago. Samosir Island, which is actually bigger than all of Singapore, sits in the middle of the lake. And it’s the 14th deepest lake in the world.


“Danau Toba has been part of traveler folklore for decades. This grand, ocean-blue lake, found high up among Sumatra’s volcanic peaks, is where the amiable Batak people reside, largely untouched by the rest of the world. The secret of this almost mythical place was opened by the intrepid… Expect a chorus of ‘horas’ (‘welcome’) to greet you at every turn, as the locals quietly strum away the afternoon on their guitars while passing around a flagon of jungle juice—the locals are proud, debaucherous Christians who love a drink.”


One of my friends in Palembang told me an old legend about the area. Apparently, Lake Toba was once a beautiful lake with no island in the middle. There were many men who enjoyed fishing out in the clear, blue water. Once upon a time, a fish fell in love with one of the fisherman. She begged God to turn her into a woman so she could marry this man and spend her life with him on land.


God finally agreed to her plan, on one condition: that the (fish)woman nor her husband could ever mention that she had once been a fish. She agreed, and God turned her into a beautiful woman. The fisherman quickly fell in love with her and asked her to marry him. She told him how she’d spent years admiring him from under the water while he worked.


For years, they were very happy. The (fish)woman thought she was the luckiest (fish)woman in the whole world when she became pregnant with a son. Unfortunately, after the boy was born and started growing older, the husband and wife began arguing more and more. Soon, they couldn’t agree on a single thing, especially on how to raise their child.


One night, the fisherman got so upset he screamed, “What do you know?! You’re just a stupid fish! You’re not a real woman!”


God was angry that the fisherman had broken the promise. So he immediately turned the woman back into a fish and she lived the rest of her life in Lake Toba. As for the son, God decided he didn’t have to be a fish, but he couldn’t travel land freely like the rest of humankind. So God built Samosir, an island in the middle of the lake. The son spent the rest of his life there—stuck on that small piece of land and surrounded by the water where his (fish)mother swam.


Fortunately, there were no signs of (fish)women or scorned sons on our trip. Our hotel was unbelievable for the value—hot water and only $5 a night. And a pretty great view:


Good morning, Lake Toba.

Toba definitely gives you the feeling—appropriately, I suppose—that you’re at a lake; it’s no Bali. The air is cool enough at night that we didn’t even need an air conditioner.


Lake Toba has some of the most delicious pizza in all of Indonesia. Or maybe they just have real cheese. Either way, yum.


We rented a motorcycle and visited the Stone Chairs, which are more than 300 years old.


Rock solid justice

The king sat in the biggest chair, and the accused sat across the circle from him. The king and other prominent village men decided the sentence. If they chose death, the condemned man was beheaded.


This nice little boy volunteered to demonstrate.
Too bad we had to eat him.

First they “rubbed” out all the bad magic from the criminal, often stabbing or cutting him. Then they cut his head off. If the executioner wasn’t able to cut off the criminal’s head in a single chop, then he was beheaded. Quite a high-risk career, no? Then they rubbed the body with chili and garlic… and ate the criminal. The whole village would take a piece, believing they were made stronger by the man’s flesh and blood. The Bataks were cannibals well into the 1800s.


The tour guide we hired (for about $2) to lead us around the chairs and the Batak houses on the museum grounds showed us some traditional utensils, musical instruments, and wedding garb.


Batak houses have little doors.

He also pointed out the large masks and symbols adorning the houses. I thought it was interesting that he said they used to be magic until the Batak people discovered Christianity, and now they’re not magic anymore. He didn’t at all imply that the people were ever mistaken about magical powers, just that as the faith of the villagers evolved, so did the significance of their once-magical symbols.


We also tracked down the spot where Lonely Planet took their picture of Lake Toba. I was very excited about this. Although it’s obvious we either came on a very overcast day or there was some serious photo-editing going on.


My camera just couldn't decide what to focus on.
I know the feeling.

We still had the motorcycle for a few hours, so we decided to just drive around and explore the island a little. It certainly didn’t feel as big as it is. There were hardly any tourists on the island, and it was nice to just zoom around and look at the views. We came to one crossroads, and John said “left or right?” I picked left, and I’m glad I did, because we found one of my favorite parts of the whole weekend.


I’ve had a place in my heart for water buffalo since my freshman year at BSU when we read that horribly disturbing chapter from Tim O’Brien’s The Things They Carried where a soldier beats and kills a baby buffalo. Luckily, these buffaloes were much happier. Children were climbing all over them and were happy to let us join.


"Is it licking you?" "Yup."

They said, "Stand up!" I said, "Why not?"

John asked what the family what they used the buffalo for, and they said meat. I’ve never heard of anyone eating water buffalo… and I’m just not going to think about it.


John and Kate + 13

John is way better than I am at speaking Indonesian, which is both very helpful and a little annoying. He says communicating in Indonesian is like swinging a big club—you can say so many different things with the same words. English is more like a scalpel, which you can use to say exactly what you mean and in a number of different ways. That’s so true. And I’ve never been good at swinging clubs anyway.


I’m especially glad that I spent the weekend still on the island of Sumatra. I feel like so much of the traveling I do involves going somewhere else, which is nice. But island pride feels good.


Bye bye, Lake Toba.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Why I'm mad at all presidents

"That a famous [politician] has been cursed by a woman is a matter of complete indifference to a famous [politician]."
-Virginia Woolf, complete change in meaning by Katie Bostdorff


Ok, so I'm not really mad at all presidents. Really. But I’m not very happy with them right now...


1. Grr George Bush…


According to my friends in Palembang, GEORGE BUSH IS THE REASON I CANNOT SEE THE RAFFLESIA FLOWER.


Apparently, when he visited Indonesia three years ago, the Indonesian government constructed a private landing pad for him. My friends say they stripped away acres of wildlife in Java. Then, they say, the propellers from his helicopter somehow tampered with the delicate balance of nature and thousands of rafflesia could no longer bloom.


Yeah, ok. This sounds unlikely. I scoured the internet for any corroboration of their story, but, well… I found absolutely nothing.


Even if the story is true, would it actually be Bush’s fault? No. But I’ve been blaming a good portion of my problems over the last nine years on him, and I see no compelling reason to stop now.


In conclusion, "George Bush don’t like black people” or smelly flowers.


2. Grr Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono…


The President of Indonesia came to Palembang last week! A frenzy ensued. See this article. Or don't. You can get the point from the headline: "Police Detain Student Protestors and a Buffalo as Yudhoyono Arrives in Palembang." Oh, Palembang.


The Tuesday started like any other day. At 10 o’clock, though, my school’s headmistress got a call saying SBY would be stopping by IGM on his way out of town. Immediately, all classes were cancelled. Teachers threw themselves into a frenzy, handrolling hundreds of pieces of pempek and running from classroom to classroom with their jilbabs blowing in the air. Male students with longish hair (touching their ears) were given emergency haircuts behind the building. The school’s owners (the ominous “Foundation”) were called in.


We all lined the entrance to the school, ready to welcome our leader with open arms. 11 o’clock passed. We got another call saying that SBY couldn’t actually make it, but he was sending his son in his place.


12 o’clock passed.


1 o’clock passed. The pempek was starting to smell fishy.


We got another call saying that neither SBY or his son could make it, but they were sending a Representative.


Then we got another call. The President WAS going to come!


He didn’t come. The Representative came after all, and he said he only had time to pose for one picture in front of the school, and no, he could not shake any students’ hands. Three minutes later, he left.


“Oh, Miss Ketty,” one of the teachers said. “We are so disappointed.”


But don’t worry; pempek in Palembang does not go to waste. We devoured it all in a matter of minutes.


3. Grr Barack Obama…


Obama has officially announced that he’ll be visiting Jakarta in late March. And we got an email saying he doesn’t have time to visit with any Fulbright Scholars while he’s here. While this doesn’t exactly put the brakes on my initial plan of literally throwing my body in his path, that strategy was a long shot anyway and would probably have been met with unpleasant consequences.


As though the leader of the free world might have something better to do with his time than meet me.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Thom's Things on Motorbikes

Thom Stead is another Fulbright ETA here in Indonesia. There are three especially cool things about Thom:

1. He lives in Ohio (Cincinnati).
2. He went to college in Indiana (Earlham).
3. He has a sub-blog in his blog (http://semasemasemarang.blogspot.com) of Things on Motorbikes.

In Eat Pray Love, Elizabeth Gilbert calls the motorbike "the minivan of Indonesia." It's so true.

So I stole it to share with all of you. He said I could.

Things on Motorbikes #1:

These are obviously watermelons,
but I've also seen as many as five water-cooler-sized jugs
of water on a single motorbike, too.


Things on Motorbikes #2:

And they were all alive!

Things on Motorbikes #3:

I don't know what this guy's hauling,
but it sure is massive.


And a close-up.

Things on Motorbikes #4:

Hey, family, let's go get dessert. Everyone hop on the bike!

Things on Motorbikes #5:
(I took this one in Medan.)

When you need a goldfish on the go.